Hourglass created the makeup looks for the La Perla fall 2013 presentation in New York earlier this month. The collection, which featured lace, tulle and silk designs, was inspired by Spain, specifically the embellished livery of bullfighters. “I wanted to capture the sensuality and the strength of the woman wearing this decadent lingerie,” says makeup artist Moani Lee, who focused on elegant brows, radiant skin and dramatic lips worthy of an Almodóvar heroine.

For La Perla’s Black Label collection, which referenced mysterious themes including erotic art and surrealism, Lee switched the focus from the lips to the eyes. “The second look is a fresh take on the classic smoky eye, featuring a blend of black and brown kohl liner,” she says. “There are no harsh lines, it’s a softer interpretation that showcases beautiful, almond-shaped eyes.”

Lee has a mixmaster approach to makeup: To imbue skin with a multi-dimensional luminescence, she combined three different shades of Hourglass foundation, concealer, and finishing powder. As for the scene-stealing scarlet lip, she blended two shades of Hourglass Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick. “It was one part Icon and three parts Raven,” she says. “The mixture of blue red and orange red makes for an opulent and regal fall statement.”

Photos by Thaddeus Rombauer

GET THE LOOK

LOOK ONE: La Perla Collection

SKIN: Prep with Hourglass No. 28 Primer Serum. Follow with Hourglass Veil Fluid Makeup in three shades: Porcelain, Ivory and Honey. “I use the deepest shade to contour, the lightest shade to highlight and the matching shade for the rest of the skin,” says Lee. Repeat the process with Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer in three shades: Fair, Natural and Tan. Finish up with Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in three shades: Radiant Light (golden beige), Dim Light (neutral beige) and Luminous Light (champagne pearl). “Blending the three powders creates an exceptional glow.”

EYES: Augment brows with Hourglass Arch Sculpting Brow Pencil in Soft Brunette. Next, line the eyes with Hourglass Film Noir Kohl Eye Pencil in Espresso, and apply the mauve shimmer shade from Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Exhibition to the lids. “To create a watery effect, I like to dampen my brush with a little No. 28 Primer Serum,” says Lee. “Unlike using water, the shadow never really dries down.” Finish with a few coats of Hourglass Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara.

LIPS: Apply Hourglass Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick in Raven and Icon. “I melted the shades together and applied the new color with a lip brush,” says Lee. “Although vibrant, it’s not an especially sharp shape. It’s still fresh, delicate and elegant.”

LOOK TWO: La Perla Black Label

SKIN: Prep skin with Hourglass No. 28 Primer Serum. Follow with Hourglass Veil Fluid Makeup in three shades: Porcelain, Ivory and Honey. Repeat the process with Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer in three shades: Fair, Natural and Tan. Finish up with Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in three shades: Radiant Light (golden beige), Dim Light (neutral beige) and Luminous Light (champagne pearl).

EYES: Augment brows with Hourglass Arch Sculpting Brow Pencil in Soft Brunette. Next, line the eyes with Hourglass Film Noir Kohl Eye Pencil in Eclipse (black) and smudge. Follow with Hourglass Film Noir Kohl Eye Pencil in Espresso (brown) and smudge. “Layering the two shades gives the eyes more depth and intrigue,” says Lee. Follow with the eggplant shimmer shade from Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Exhibition. Finish with a few coats of Hourglass Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara.

LIPS: Apply Hourglass Femme Rouge Velvet Crème Lipstick in Grace. “This shade enhances your natural lip color,” says Lee. “The sensual flesh tone is as appropriate for everyday as it is for the La Perla runway.